ARI WATCH by EVA LEUBE

EVA LEUBE - ARI WATCH

 
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Published by 2705 on June 18 2012, 17:09.
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ARI WATCH by EVA LEUBE

VISION HAS BECOME REALITY

ARI WATCH by EVA LEUBE

From Sydney to the World

Eva Leube is an independent watchmaking

Historical retrospective of Eva leube:

Eva Leube has gained her experience, working amongst some of the world’s best watchmakers in Germany, Switzerland, South Africa, the USA and Australia and over these years, she has restored countless wristwatches, pocket watches and clocks to an active and in many cases, a beautiful life.

Now in Australia, sourcing services, materials and equipment creates a new adventure and in the meantime anything she doesn’t already have is available by mail from European supply houses.

When she was 16 years old she began to study watchmaking and she recalls "it is a beautiful old handcraft in which I had a keen interest".

1988-1992:
Apprenticed as a watchmaker in Berlin, Germany.
1992-1994:
Employed as a watchmaker in Antique Watch and Clock Store in Berlin.
1995:
At the age of 23, Eva achieved her Masters Degree in watchmaking from the chamber in Hildesheim.
1995-1998:
Worked as Master Watchmaker in a 4th generation family-owned watch company in Lucerne, Switzerland.
1998-2000:
Joined Chronos Master Watchmakers in
Cape Town, South Africa which included training with Rolex in Geneva.
2000-2004:
Engaged by Rolex Australia workshop in Sydney, Australia Square and undertook further training withRolex in Geneva.
2004:
Completed 8 months training at chronometer and complications specialist Ulysse Nardin in Le Locle, Switzerland and in Boca Raton, Florida.
2004-2007:
Manufacturing of handmade, custom-designed watches with Thomas Prescher in Twann, Switzerland, including double-retrograde time indication and flying multiple-axis tourbillons.
2007:
Eva moved to Australia with her Australian born husband John (of Swiss parents) and established Eva LeubeWatchmaking in Manly, near Sydney.

Eva Leube set up her own workshop following the birth of her son Ari and named her first watch after him.

Making a curved mechanical movement has its own particular problems and perhaps from a horological viewpoint this is one of the most technically challenging aspects of the "ARI" watch.

All the parts must accommodate an angular engagement with the next functional part:

wheels to pinions, escape wheel to the pallets and the pallets to the balance wheel.

But the form of the case is also a major element of the shape and function of the watch and requires machining case parts from the solid block of casing metal, gold or platinum, a time-consuming and difficult process.

The ARI watch by Eva Leube follows the contours of the wrist forming a striking and substantial arc shape, but this is no run-of-the-mill cuff watch, inside is a handmade movement which has been designed to fill the entire case in a stunning front-on view.

Eva Leube has quite literally curved the calibre.

To create curved parts you need solid blocks of metal, not flat sheets.

To cut and shape the curved parts need to create tools capable of cutting and shaping curved parts.

To finish curved parts once they have been cut, you need unique tools capable of finishing the curved parts.

To complicate the process even further Eva Leube lives and works in Sydney, just about as faraway as you can get from the industry’s comfort zone of suppliers and technical know-how.

Inside the ARI watch is an handmade calibre appearing in a unique linear form.

The large balance is at the top, followed by a subdial for seconds then in the centre is the hour and minutes dial with an Eva Leube engraved ratchet wheel completing the perfectly formal line-up.

The hands are heat-blued steel.

Much of the watch is customizable depending on the customer.

I look forward to seeing her future work.

TECHNICAL DETAILS of the ARI Watch

MOVEMENT:
Manual-winding mechanical
Balance Free sprung balance with regulating screws with 15mm in diameter
With 209 Individual components
Chatons in 18k Gold
Gear train highly-modified gear train from a Record 302 calibre
Engraving case movement hand-engraved by master engraver John W. Thompson

FINISHING:
Main plate and bridges in rhodium-plated brass, ratchet wheel hand-engrave with Eva Leube name

VIBRATIONS:
18,000 vph 2,5 (Hz)

POWER RESERVE:
40 hours

JEWELS:
18 jewels

FUNCTIONS:
Hours, minutes and seconds

DIAL:
Both dials in 18k Gold

CASE:
Available in 18k gold or platinum 950

CASEBACK:
With Eva Leube Family coat of arms

CROWN:
Screwed locking crown
Crown and buckle in metal to match case

DIMENSIONS:
52.44mm long x 21.60mm wide x 8.45 mm high

GLASS:
Three anti-reflection sapphire crystals on top and both sides

WATER RESISTANCE:
3 Bar = 30 meters

STRAP:
Leather bracelet custom-made to client's specifications

Published by José Sousa

 
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